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Discussion Starter #1
Folks, I have never done any rust-proofing until now, having driven winter beaters since I bought my first car 10 years ago. We bought a used (but fairly new) SUV earlier this year, it's still in good shape and I'd like to rust-proof it and hope to keep it around for at least a few years.

I have done a bit of research and it looks like there are 3 main different methods to rust-proof your car, namely Krown, RustCheck and Corrosion-Free. Unfortunately, this is all new to me and I'd like to get some of your feedback as to which one provides the best bang for our bucks and if one method is superior to others.

Thanks.
 

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I don't know about the last one you mentioned but as a long-time user of the first two products, I can assure you both are fine. Schedule an app't with them to bring the car in and it will take about an hour to do the whole car. They hoist it, drill holes in the doors, trunk etc and then spray all over the place. My last two cars were done with this EVERY year and they didn't rust out. One car went as a 9 year old car and the other as a 12 year old car. Before these two, I had a Honda that rusted right out as the previous owner never did it. Lesson learned, never let this happen. Rust check the car EVERY YEAR, especially in the east where they are heavy users of road salt. It will cost you between $125-150 for cars, more for larger vehicles.

This is not a glamorous process, so don't go there in your Sunday attire.

For a week or two after this is done, you should park somewhere other than your usual spots, to allow the "oil" to drip off. If you park indoors, lay out some cardboard under the car to catch the drips and after a week or two take the soaked/spotted cardboard to the recycle bins.

I would say now is a good time to bring the car in, before the winter. The longer you procrastinate at this point, the more lineups there will be. Even if you call tomorrow it might take a month before the app't you want can be scheduled. Don't delay any further!

Let us know what you decide/how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
royal, I have been offered a deal of $129.99 for my SUV as part of a group buy for RustCheck rustproofing with a local shop.

Are you concerned at all about the fact holes will be drilled into your car or is it par for the course?

Do you believe rust-proofing every year will pay for itself in the sense that the resale value will be higher compared to a comparable car that may not have the same type of rust protection?

Btw, thanks for the tips. Much appreciated.
 

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Are you concerned at all about the fact holes will be drilled into your car or is it par for the course?

It's par for the course. They're good at hiding the holes in places you wouldn't pay too much attention to, and put little rubber or plastic plugs in too.


Do you believe rust-proofing every year will pay for itself in the sense that the resale value will be higher compared to a comparable car that may not have the same type of rust protection?

Only if it works :) That is to say, I don't think you'll get much increased resale value just for saying/showing it was done if you're selling the car while it's still fairly new and none of the comparable cars that weren't treated have started to rust yet. If you sell it when it's older (10+ years) and all the comparable cars have very visible rust, then you should get some of it back, but I can't say if it'll fully pay for itself.

I didn't start Krown on my old car until it was 9 years old, and already had some rust showing. They claimed the treatment was effective for up to 2 years, so I only got it every other year after that point. It did still accumulate a bit more rust (sold it at 13 years old), but I think it did slow down the progression noticeably.
 

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canabiz:

>royal, I have been offered a deal of $129.99 for my SUV as part of a group buy for RustCheck rustproofing with a local shop.

Sounds about right. Add tax and you're close to $150. It has gotten expensive in recent years.

>Are you concerned at all about the fact holes will be drilled into your car or is it par for the course?

Par for the course. To not drill the holes defeats the purpose as a lot of rust develops in the enclosed areas you can't see, where moisture collects. As someone pointed out above, the holes are discreet and are plugged with little plastic grommets after. They only do this one time. In subsequent years, they see the plugs and remove them to spray.

>Do you believe rust-proofing every year will pay for itself in the sense that the resale value will be higher compared to a comparable car that may not have the same type of rust protection?

Think of this as preventative mtc on the body. If you are like me in that you keep up with your oil changes and do all other repairs as needed, then you should be able to get 10-12 years out of your car IF you do the annual rust proofing (or at least every 2-3 yrs). 10-12 year old cars are basically worthless. The last one I sold got offers of between $200-1700 in trade at a dealer. NO rust, solid body and mechanical mtc up to date. If I had of not invested to protect the body from rusting, the car may not have lasted that long AND would have rusted out before I was ready to sell/trade. Like all other car mtc, we don't spend the money to increase the value, we spend the money so the car runs properly and doesn't look, run and sound like a piece of cr-p. It's really a question of pride and keeping your things looking nice and clean.

>Btw, thanks for the tips. Much appreciated.

You're welcome! But please do keep us posted, I'm interested to hear what you end up deciding, where you go, how you liked the service etc. Potato and andrew had some good comments as well.
 

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Oh and on the question about selling two cars, one with rust proofing and one without, I think rusted out hulks will gather less interest when comes time to sell. It's very hard to sell/trade a rusted out car, most are fit for the scrapyard for $50 or free for the cost of towing. When you sell, be sure to tell the buyer that the rustproofing was done every x years and invite them to inspect the body. It's just something else on your side. :)
 

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I've got a 2006 caravan. Some dingdong scraped down the side of me a couple of months ago and I had to get the one side painted. The bodyman (my brother in law) who fixed it told me two things. 1) oil the car every year (I hadn't) and 2) unload the caravan because the rust has started inside and in 1-2 years it'll be visible.

Going forward I'm going to start oiling it.
 

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Question for the-royal-mail (and others): is there any point in doing rust-proofing for a 10 year old car that's never been treated before?

No (visible) rust yet, but I'm wondering if I should start now or it's too late.
 

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At this point you can slow down the spread of whatever rust has started to develop, but if the car is 10 years old there is a good chance you won't have it for much longer. It would do it once now if you want 2-3 more years out of the car but the purpose is not to maintain value so much as it is to allow you to keep driving the car without the body falling apart on you.
 

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Try local shops too. I found one in Toronto, on a RFD group buy. Everyone gave good feedback about the shop. The owner then said who ever shows up, will get the group buy price regardless.

I believe I paid $79.00 + tax.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just got my car Rust Checked at the Luxe Auto Lounge in Orleans, east end of Ottawa. I highly recommend this shop. It's a bit of a drive if you live in the west or south end but it's well worth it. The cost is $129 + tax for our SUV and the guys also did a courtesy exterior wash and an indoor vacuum. Kyle (the owner) and his staff will take good care of you and your vehicle.

The car did have some oil drip so I have parked on the street for now and will put a layer of cardboard on my driveway for overnight.

Thanks to all for your feedback, it's good to get this out of the way and beat the rush. They recommend doing this every 12 months and not washing the car at the gas station car wash or any place with the underside blast.
 

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Some manufacturers offer long rust perforation warranties, like Volkswagen is 12 year as they galvanize the sheetmetal, making these processes questionable. Surface rust isn't covered, and oil treatments don't protect against that anyway.

Put the $125/year aside in savings and maintain your engine and suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Some manufacturers offer long rust perforation warranties, like Volkswagen is 12 year as they galvanize the sheetmetal, making these processes questionable. Surface rust isn't covered, and oil treatments don't protect against that anyway.

Put the $125/year aside in savings and maintain your engine and suspension.
You don't see any value in rust-proofing, period or you don't see the benefits for these processes if the manufacturer already has something in place?

Just for the record, my SUV is not new, it is a 4-year old car and I bought it used a few months ago so it would not be under any sort of protection from the manufacturer. Not to my knowledge anyway.
 

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In 1997, I bought a used '96 Chev truck. I had Krown applied every fall. In 2000, both cab corners rusted out (holes).
Shop wouldn't pay because the product hadn't been applied from day 1.

Worth it? not in my case.
 

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In 1997, I bought a used '96 Chev truck. I had Krown applied every fall. In 2000, both cab corners rusted out (holes).
Shop wouldn't pay because the product hadn't been applied from day 1.

Worth it? not in my case.
That's troubling, although it is a very common sight to see on those trucks.

My fiance has a 2003 Olds Alero which she gets Krowned every year. Hardly a spec of rust on the thing. I have a 16 year old VW which had some rust when I bought it 3 years ago. Have had it Krowned every year since and the rust hasn't spread. I do plan on buying the spray equipment and doing it myself...hard to justify spending the $120/yr on a car that's worth $3000.

Another important point when considering the economics of rust protection is that it will greatly extend the life of fuel and brake lines, as well as prevent corrosion in electrical items. These can be very costly items to repair.

If you buy a vehicle new and have it sprayed every year for 10 years you may get that back in resale. I personally like to keep vehicles for a long time and hate rust so its a no-brainer for me.

One other thing that will greatly reduce the onset of rust in any vehicle is regular car washes, especially in the spring when the undercarriage and body is full of salt and the weather warms up. There is a car wash in my town that has a high pressure undercarriage wash which I use often.

Just my .02
 

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One other thing that will greatly reduce the onset of rust in any vehicle is regular car washes, especially in the spring when the undercarriage and body is full of salt and the weather warms up. There is a car wash in my town that has a high pressure undercarriage wash which I use often.

Just my .02
Another important factor for rust is the temperature - the higher the temp the faster the reaction spreads. I always wash my car when it warms up and there's no rust on my 97. I also removed the rubber wheel well liners that hold salt next to the fender

I go to no name rust proof places because I'm not convinced that a $50 solution is any different than $120
 

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Some manufacturers offer long rust perforation warranties, like Volkswagen is 12 year as they galvanize the sheetmetal, making these processes questionable. Surface rust isn't covered, and oil treatments don't protect against that anyway.

Put the $125/year aside in savings and maintain your engine and suspension.
Speaking of manufacturers' long rust perforation warranties ...

I have a 2013 Volkswagen CC -- black colour.

Rust/paint peeling began to appear on/near the rocker panel by the drivers door of my car. Volkswagen Canada denied the rust claim under warranty.

On December 17, 2015, I took the car to the dealer to show the rust coming from underneath and eating away at the paint on the rocker panel. The dealer took pictures and submitted them to Volkswagen Canada. Yesterday (i.e. one and one half months later), I learned that Volkswagen Canada denied the claim stating the rust and paint peeling was caused by "outside influences".

This is preposterous. The rust was bleeding through from underneath causing the paint to peel away. This damage is located on or at the rocker panel/door sills by the driver's door. The damaged spot is protected by the driver's door, so that it is not exposed to flying debris from the road.

There is no evidence of "outside influences" as claimed by Volkswagen Canada. There is no lack of care, or failure to promptly repair. I did not get any third party rustproofing done, so there was no use of any inferior rustproofing agent or method. There is no evidence of environmental damage.

This is Volkswagen Canada's method of denying warranty claims. Although Volkswagen Canada has a 12 year warranty against rust, this warranty appears worthless.
 
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