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Discussion Starter #1
well now that I know what to fo with the fence馃お, there're other items on the "honey-do" list.
Can anyone recommend an exterior caulk that's effective on damp/wet surfaces?There seems to be a few available on the market. I got a little water problem around the bottom of my basement door that's down in the shade at the bottom of a concrete stairwell & it rarely or never sees the sun & is damp/wet pretty well all the time, unless we might get a long dry spell in mid-summer.... Any good suggestions from your experience.?
(I was just watching that commercial for Flex Seal on tv, where the guy makes a boat out of the stuff ....lol....thats what reminded me...lol)
 

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Had a few cracks coming from my cement garage floor out to the cement driveway where the cracks continued and were expanding due to the water in them which froze in the winter. Purchased a concrete driveway crack sealer and it worked great. Its been several years now and and the cracks have stopped. Can't remember the brand name.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
^^^^^ no problems with the concrete

there is a drain in the well & it works fine, problem is just down at bottom of wood door frame.
always in shade, cool, dampness.... rarely if ever dries out, sun never hits it
 

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Jargey, I would just get GE or Mono outdoor window and door sealant (silicones) Before you caulk, clean the area thoroughly and if damp, use a hot air gun, portable heater or your wife's hair dryer to dry the area out. Do it on a warm day without rain (to you get those down there?) It will last for a few years, then do it again :)
 

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If it is a typical hollow wood frame door with a metal outer surface, chances are the bottom of the door will eventually rot out. You may want to check and see if it has not already started to do so. Water gets in joins in the metal outer surface and rots the wood '2x2' bottom. If it is an entirely wooden door it is even more likely to happen sooner of course.

I had to replace 2 outside doors on our breezeway due to this and both get sun and are well drained but snow would build up and when it melted, the damage was done over time (maybe 25 years). You can't 'seal' a door unless you 'seal' it closed.

There is a point at which doors do have to be replaced rather than repaired, just like anything else. Your conditions that exist may just mean that will occur for you more often than under other conditions. How old is the door?

One alternative you might look at is replacing just the bottom of the door if it is rotting out. Then forget it for another 20 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks all so far.

agent99-yes, that's my plan exactly... might be a window to do it some time in july....come to think of it, ONLY in July!

LTA - to clarify, its a steel door, and the problem is not with the door itself. its around the bottom/sides where the door casings meet the sill, if thats what its called. I had same type of problem in old house & ended up replacing the whole door unit after maybe 20-25 years, when the bottom of door also started to rust. Im in current house 8 years now.
 

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Don't like silicone for an application like this because it absorbs and holds water. I would use a good quality butyl rubber calking 10 - 15 - 20 year rating, get the best one your hardware store has to offer.
 

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thanks all so far.

agent99-yes, that's my plan exactly... might be a window to do it some time in july....come to think of it, ONLY in July!

LTA - to clarify, its a steel door, and the problem is not with the door itself. its around the bottom/sides where the door casings meet the sill, if thats what its called. I had same type of problem in old house & ended up replacing the whole door unit after maybe 20-25 years, when the bottom of door also started to rust. Im in current house 8 years now.
Ah, that clarifies, it is not a door problem, you were misleading there.

OK, so you could try sealing the joint where the casing meets the sill, yes. I would use any decent silicone sealant for designated for outdoor use. Usually they tend to dry out after a while but that is usually because of the effect of the sun on the silicone. You won't have that problem. LOL
 

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Personally I would look for a polyurethane caulk/sealant, if I thought it would be hard to ensure total dryness. PU cures by incorporating water into the plastic and can stick to damp surfaces better than most types of filler/sealant. Look for Sikaflex or similar moisture-curing PU sealant. They are super sticky and nasty to clean up, but strong, durable and stick to most substrates extraordinarily well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
..this forum is often a much better place to ask questions & get good info. than 'googling' something...
 
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